Luscious piles of leafy greens are the first fresh vegetables to make an appearance in the Union Square Greenmarket after a long winter in New York. Even after asparagus and strawberries and sugar snaps have joined the party, greens are still ubiquitous. With so much abundance, I tend to go overboard and purchase more bunches than is decent. Later, after feeling daunted by refrigerator overload, I prepare this herby green jam and watch the bin space open up again. It never ceases to amaze me that such a mountain of greens and leafy herbs reduces so much in size.  

The truth is that my body craves greens, especially in spring and summer. And this recipe, which includes a plethora of greens, is a spin-off of a recipe from Bon Appetit, which is a spin-off or a recipe from Paula Wolfert’s original version in her book, The Slow Mediterranean.

I have not seen the original recipe—I just keep rifting on this basic template, and never make it the same way twice. Each time I vary the greens and herbs, using what looks good at the market or what I have on hand, and I vary the amount of oil and spice as well. This latest version featured spinach, arugula, swiss chard, and turnip tops as well as parsley and dill.

Serve this dish alongside a main course, such as fish, chicken, lamb, or beans; stuff it into frittatas and omelets; mound it on a slice of good sourdough, melted cheese capping the top. 

Serves 4 to 6

• 4-6 (or more) cloves garlic, peeled and smashed
• 4 bunches greens (softer varieties such as chard, spinach, arugula, and broccoli rabe are best, although you can use heartier varieties–just cook them longer), tough stems removed, roughly chopped 
• ½ cup extra virgin olive oil
• ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes
• 3 or 4 cups leafy herbs, chopped (such as parsley, cilantro, basil, dill, chives, tarragon, sorrel)
• 1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger
• 1 teaspoon ground coriander
• Salt
• Squeeze lemon juice

Place the garlic in a large pot with the greens piled on top. Pour 1 cup of water over and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Cover the pot and reduce the heat to medium-low, and steam until the greens are wilted and the garlic is soft, 10 to 15 minutes.

Use tongs to transfer the greens and garlic to a medium bowl. Let sit until cool enough to handle. (if you’re pressed for time, you could use a potato ricer to squeeze the water out of the greens while they are hot.)  Pick out the garlic and transfer to a small bowl. Mash to a paste with a fork. 

Squeeze any water out of the greens and herbs. Transfer to a cutting board, finely chop, and set aside. 

In a medium pot, add ¼ cup oil over medium-low heat. Add the ginger and chile flakes and cook, stirring frequently, about a minute. Stir in the coriander and garlic and cook another minute or so. Add the chopped greens and herbs and stir together. Cook, stirring occasionally, until well combined, herbs have wilted, and flavors have melded, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat, season with salt, and stir in the lemon juice and remaining ¼ cup oil.